The 12-Step Secret to Making a Collar That Holds Its Shape The 12-Step Secret to Making a Collar That Holds Its Shape

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A collar that holds its shape is one of the key features that sets apart professional looking garments from homemade ones. Whether you are sewing a classic shirt, a blazer or a stylish dress, getting the collar to stand firm, crisp and neatly shaped is essential for a polished look. Here’s the 12 step secret to crafting a collar that holds its shape, from the fabric selection to the finishing touches.

Choose the Right Fabric

The foundation of a sturdy collar starts with choosing the right fabric. Opt for fabrics with some structure, like cotton, linen or a cotton blend. These materials are firm enough to support the collar’s shape while still being comfortable to wear. Avoid fabrics that are too soft or drapey like jersey or stretchy materials, as they will make it difficult to achieve a crisp collar.

Use Interfacing for Extra Support

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Interfacing is essential for giving your collar extra structure. Use fusible interfacing that complements the weight of your fabric, medium weight interfacing works well for most collars. Be sure to iron the interfacing onto the collar pieces following the manufacturer’s instructions. The added stiffness will help the collar stand firm and hold its shape. Medium weight fabrics like cotton and crepe give versatile, holding structures without being too stiff. Heavyweight fabrics like wool and denim give structure and warmth, perfect for coats and tailored garments. Always check fabric weight before purchasing, don’t just rely on how it looks!

Cut Collar Pieces with Precision

Precision in cutting your collar pieces ensures that they fit perfectly together. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for clean, straight edges. If you are working with a pattern, make sure to align the collar pieces accurately with the grainline of the fabric to maintain balance and evenness when the collar is finished.

Consider Underlining for Additional Structure

Underlining the collar with a lightweight, supportive fabric such as organza or cotton can provide an extra layer of stiffness. Cut the underlining to match the collar pieces and baste it in place before assembling the collar. This step helps give the collar extra durability, especially when working with softer fabrics.

Reinforce Collar Seams

To ensure that your collar maintains its structure, reinforce the seams with a small seam allowance of around ¼ inch to avoid any shifting. You can also use a straight stitch or a tiny zigzag stitch along the collar’s edges to secure it firmly before attaching it to the garment.

Press the Collar as You Go

Pressing is crucial for achieving a sharp collar. After sewing the collar pieces together, press the seams open and the collar into its final shape. Use steam to help mold the collar into place and ensure that it’s crisp. Make sure to press carefully at the collar points and edges to avoid wrinkles.

Turn the Collar Right Side Out Neatly

After sewing your collar, carefully turn it right side out, making sure the points are crisp and sharp. Use a point turner or a blunt knitting needle to gently push out the collar points. Avoid using anything too sharp that could tear the fabric, but ensure that the collar edges are cleanly turned for that professional, precise look.

Topstitch for Extra Stability

Topstitching along the edges of the collar not only adds a decorative touch but also helps to keep the collar in place. This step helps to reinforce the shape, especially at the collar’s seams and ensures that it holds its structure throughout wear. Use a matching or contrasting thread, depending on the look you want.

Attach the Collar with Care

When attaching the collar to your garment, make sure the edges are aligned perfectly and that the collar sits flat against the neckline. Pin the collar in place to ensure a smooth finish and sew with a precise, even stitch. It’s often helpful to sew slowly around the collar, adjusting the fabric as you go, to maintain accuracy and prevent puckering.

Finish Collar Edges Neatly

To avoid raw edges or fraying, finish the collar’s raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch or bias binding. This ensures a clean finish that will last, preventing any fraying from weakening the collar structure over time. It also helps the collar maintain its sharpness, especially if the fabric is prone to fraying.

Add Collar Stays for Extra Sharpness

For those looking to achieve a really crisp, stiff collar, consider adding collar stays. These can be purchased or made from lightweight plastic, meta or even strips of fabric. Insert the stays into the collar’s inner edges to ensure that the collar maintains its sharp, structured look, particularly when it’s worn for extended periods.

Give the Collar One Last Press

After attaching the collar to your garment, give it one final press to ensure everything sits perfectly. Steam the collar to remove any creases and press it into the final shape. This last pressing step will help set the collar and ensure it stays in place throughout the day.

A collar that holds its shape can make a world of difference in how a garment looks and feels. By following these 12 steps, from choosing the right fabrics to adding collar stays for extra sharpness, you can craft a collar that is not only stylish but structured and durable. Whether it’s for a shirt, jacket or dress, a perfectly shaped collar adds that professional, tailored touch that elevates your handmade garments to the next level.

Disclaimer: This list is solely the author’s opinion based on research and publicly available information.

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