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Creating a pattern that fits perfectly from the first try can seem daunting, but with the right approach and attention to detail, it’s absolutely achievable. By following this 12 step formula, you will be able to design patterns that hug your body in all the right places, minimizing the need for adjustments and helping you create clothing that fits like a glove. Here’s your no fail guide to creating a pattern that fits on the first try.

Take Accurate Measurements

The first and most important step is to take your measurements correctly. Use a soft measuring tape and measure key areas such as the bust, waist, hips, inseam and shoulder width. It’s essential to measure over the undergarments you plan to wear with the garment and make sure to stand naturally, don’t suck in your stomach!

Choose the Right Pattern Size

Photo Credit: Tima Miroshnichenko/Pexels

Pattern sizes can vary, so it’s crucial to check the specific measurements listed on the pattern. Don’t go by the ready to wear size you typically buy. Compare your measurements to the pattern size chart and choose the size closest to your measurements, keeping in mind that it’s always easier to take a garment in than to let it out.

Use a Custom-Fit Sloper

If you are serious about getting a perfect fit, consider starting with a sloper. A sloper is a basic pattern that fits your body exactly without any ease. You can draft one yourself or purchase a pre-made sloper. Once you have a perfect sloper, you can use it as a base to modify for any type of garment.

Add Ease Where Necessary

Patterns come with some built in “ease” (extra space) to ensure comfort and movement. However, make sure you are not adding too much or too little ease. For a more fitted look, reduce the ease around areas like the waist or bust while keeping it in areas like the hips and arms for better movement and comfort.

Make a Test Garment (Muslin)

Before cutting into your final fabric, always make a test garment using inexpensive fabric like muslin or scrap fabric. This “toile” allows you to test the fit, check for any fitting issues and see how the pattern works with your body.

Pin and Fit as You Go

When making the test garment, pin the pieces together first before sewing. This allows you to try the pieces on and make real time adjustments. Mark where any changes need to be made, whether it’s taking in a side seam or adding room to a bust area.

Adjust the Bust, Waist and Hips Separately

Not all body types are the same, so it’s essential to adjust different parts of the pattern to fit your body shape. Focus on adjusting the bust, waist and hips separately as you may need to add or remove fabric in each area differently. For example, if you have a larger bust, you may need to add extra room in that area without affecting the waistline.

Consider Your Body Shape

Your body shape plays a significant role in how a pattern will fit. For instance, if you have a curvier shape, you may need to make more adjustments in the waist and hip areas. If you have a straight figure, you may need to add more shaping in those areas to avoid a boxy look. Tailoring the pattern to fit your specific body shape is key to getting the right fit.

Use the Right Fabric

The fabric you choose will affect the fit of your final garment. Stretch fabrics require less ease and offer a form fitting look while more structured fabrics like cotton or wool, may need additional ease for comfort and movement. Keep the fabric’s properties in mind when creating your pattern.

Make Shoulder Adjustments

The shoulders are one of the trickiest areas to fit. Make sure the shoulder seams of your test garment align with the natural slope of your shoulders. If the fit is too tight or too loose, make adjustments to the shoulder seams. You can also adjust the neckline width and the armhole depth for a more customized fit.

Check the Lengths

The length of the garment whether it’s a dress, skirt or pants can make or break the fit. Always check the length of the garment on your test garment to ensure it’s at the right spot. Mark any necessary length adjustments at the hemline, waist or sleeves and note them before cutting your final fabric.

Refine the Fit After the Test Garment

Once you have tried on your test garment and made all the necessary adjustments, transfer those changes to your original pattern pieces. This step is crucial to ensure that your pattern fits perfectly for the final garment. You may need to make small tweaks, but once you have done this, you will have a pattern that fits beautifully.

By following these 12 steps, you will be able to create a pattern that fits on the first try, saving you time and frustration in the long run. Not only will this help you avoid multiple fitting sessions, but it will also increase your confidence in your sewing skills and your ability to create garments that look and feel custom made. Happy sewing!

Disclaimer: This list is solely the author’s opinion based on research and publicly available information.

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