Sewing your own clothes is an empowering and creative skill, but making them fit perfectly can be one of the biggest challenges. Many beginners face the frustration of a garment not fitting quite right, even after spending hours on the project. Custom fitting your clothes is the key to creating pieces that flatter your body and feel comfortable. Here’s an expert guide to help you master the art of custom fitting clothes and elevate your sewing game.
Understand Your Measurements
Before you even think about fabric or patterns, it’s crucial to take accurate measurements. Beginners often make the mistake of using a standard size chart without considering their unique body shape. Measure your bust, waist, hips and other key areas like the inseam or shoulder width with a soft measuring tape. Make sure the tape is snug but not tight and take your measurements while standing naturally. Write these down, as you will refer to them throughout the fitting process.
Choose the Right Pattern Size
Patterns come in a variety of sizing, but they often don’t match ready to wear sizing. Many beginners pick a pattern size based on their clothing size, only to find it doesn’t fit well when sewn up. Always base your pattern size on your actual measurements, not your clothing size. Check the pattern’s size guide and compare your bust, waist and hip measurements to the pattern’s sizing chart. If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider blending sizes or adjusting the pattern to accommodate your shape.
Alter the Pattern for Your Shape
Everybody is different and making alterations to the pattern can significantly improve the fit. Some common alterations include adjusting the length of a garment like shortening or lengthening sleeves or pants, adding or removing ease for a looser or tighter fit or adjusting the hips and waist for better alignment. If the pattern is too tight or too loose, make changes directly to the paper pattern before cutting it into fabric. To make sure your alterations are successful, always test on scrap fabric before committing to your final project.
Add Seam Allowances for Fitting Adjustments
Seam allowances are critical for fitting and making adjustments. Most patterns come with seam allowances included, sometimes they can be too small or large for your needs. Beginners often skip adjusting seam allowances, this step can make a world of difference. If you are planning to take in or let out a seam, make sure you add extra seam allowance to accommodate the changes. If you are not sure how much to add, a quarter inch or half inch extra is usually a safe bet.
Fit as You Sew
One of the most important tips for getting a custom fit is to fit as you sew. Instead of waiting until the end of the project to try the garment on, sew the pieces together loosely at first and try them on. This will give you a better sense of how the garment fits and you can make adjustments before finishing it. Don’t be afraid to make changes along the way, whether that means letting out a seam, adjusting the shoulder width or modifying the neckline.
Use Darts for Shaping
Darts are an essential tool for creating a custom fit, especially when you want to shape the fabric to fit your body. Darts are typically used in the bust, waist and back areas to remove excess fabric and create curves. Make sure you follow the pattern instructions for dart placement or you can modify them for your own preferences. If you are not sure where to place darts, mark them lightly with a fabric pencil and try the garment on to see if they need adjustment.
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Fitting for Different Body Types
Custom fitting is about understanding your own body and how to enhance your shape. If you have a more hourglass figure, you may need to adjust the waistline or add darts for a more fitted silhouette. If you are petite, you may need to shorten the pattern pieces to match your frame. Plus sized sewing may require adjustments to accommodate more room in the bust, hips or thighs. Take note of how the garment interacts with your body shape and adjust the fit accordingly.
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Use Fitting Tools
Fitting tools such as a dress form can be a game changer in the custom fitting process. While not necessary, a dress form allows you to see how the garment looks when worn and make adjustments in real time. If you don’t have a dress form, try on the garment frequently as you sew to check the fit. Additionally, fitting muslins (test garments made from cheap fabric) are incredibly helpful for perfecting the fit before cutting into your final fabric.
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Incorporate Ease into Your Fit
Ease is the extra space added to a garment for comfort and movement. It’s essential to include ease in your fitting process, especially for certain areas like the bust, hips or shoulders. Too little ease can make the garment tight and uncomfortable while too much ease can make it look baggy and unflattering. Most patterns include a standard amount of ease, but it’s always worth testing the fit and making adjustments for a more personalized result.
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Finish Seams Neatly
Once you have your perfect fit, don’t forget to finish the seams properly. Beginners often overlook this step, but it makes a big difference in the longevity and overall look of the garment. Use a serger or a zigzag stitch to finish the raw edges of your seams, preventing fraying and giving your garment a polished, professional appearance.
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Take Your Time with Fit
Perfecting the fit of your garments takes patience and practice, but the rewards are well worth it. Don’t rush through the fitting process, take your time to make small adjustments and try things on as you go. Remember, sewing is a skill that gets better with each project and soon enough, you will be creating custom fitted pieces that fit your body like a glove.
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Mastering the art of custom fitting clothes is a process that requires knowledge, practice and attention to detail. By taking the time to understand your measurements, adjust patterns to your shape and fit as you sew, you will soon be able to create garments that look like they were made just for you. Happy sewing!
Disclaimer: This list is solely the author’s opinion based on research and publicly available information.
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